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Article 10
- Breaking out the Beech (Part 1) |
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The timber is still moist to the touch and heavy,
probably about 28% moisture, but it will be easier to cut in this
condition and will dry quickly with a smaller cross-section. It is time
to rough-cut the components. You may remember (article 5) that I have
already selected and prepared pieces for the main members – the back
legs.
All this hand-work makes you think of efficiency in a way that you may
never have thought of it before. If you have ever cycled around the
countryside and taken a wrong turning – it’s the same sort of thing. You
can’t just swing round, as you can in the car, and “drat-it, I’ll have
to do that again”. It is serious this time – the expletive is more
colourful, and the thought that you will have to crank the thing up the
hill that you have just hurtled down - well, it’s not fair! |
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So, you try to cut corners – your brain goes into
overtime as you avoid mistakes and look for quick solutions. If you go
too near the line (or over it) you might not have enough width in this
component to do the job. You might have to make another one; and this
one will be no use.
As a rule, I try to cut out my largest pieces first. Not only when I’m
doing this kind of “extreme woodworking”, it is good practice when you
are using machines and “drat-it, I’ll have to do that again” comes up.
This time, though, it’s more crucial.
I’m also looking for shapes that will give me the most components for
the least effort. In this project I was able to get the four (18mm x
35mm) bottom rails out of one piece of wood.
I was taking a bit of a risk (economically – you understand); this piece
would have been wasted if I had only managed to get one (18mm x 70mm)
seat rail out of it. |
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This example may not appear to make sense
mathematically, but you didn’t see the contours of the piece of wood and
four small components are less demanding (i.e. give you more
flexibility, more choice,) than two larger ones.
So, efficiency, economy, effort, risk all these words keep coming up and
will beg the question, “Why not use a machine, why make life difficult?”
My answer is to ask another question, “Why do people learn the violin if
it’s easier to get a tune out of an electric organ?” Answer me that.
Would people turn up in large numbers for a performance of Bach’s B
minor mass at the Royal Albert Hall played on the massed electronic
organs of the BBC Electronic Organ Ensemble? Would the |
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players even want to turn up?
I digress, but when I am struggling with a bowsaw that was “working fine
an hour ago” (not blaming the tools, of course), I feel there must be an
answer for the sceptic – the person who says in a stage whisper at an
evening class: “Just use a jigsaw, that’s what I would do.”
Anyway, the practical aspects of sawing and preparing components for
this project are easier to get to grips with if you have a look at the
video clip that accompanies this chapter. Although the wood is
quarter-cut it may move a bit as it dries, so it’s better by far to
leave two or three millimetres of tolerance and more on the larger
pieces, especially the back legs. This process is called “roughing out”
after all. You can fine tune this later when the wood is ready to be
finally trued up, dressed to size and made into a chair.
The sawing along the grain is done with a rip saw. The planing is done;
first with a “scrub” plane, for quick results, then with the jack/rebate
plane and finished off with the triplane or jointer. All these are made
of beech and have wedges for keeping the blade in place, this means that
the blade adjustment is all done with tapping; either the back of blade
for a deeper cut or the rear end of the plane for retracting the blade.
I always start a new component by planing a flat “face” on it to work
from. I then use a marking gauge to establish a line, parallel to this,
for my first cut. If the component is large and/or irregular, I gauge
this line all the way round, ends as well, so that I can turn the wood
in the vice and cut from both sides and eventually from the other end.
I try to resist the temptation to rip the piece of wood apart when I
think I have nearly joined up the saw cut from both ends. (The grain can
tear and spoil the job!) Don’t do it – it’s only a few more cuts. |
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Allan
Fyfe is proprietor of Lethenty Mill Furniture. He is passionate about the
designs and techniques associated with traditional furniture from the North
East of Scotland. His website,
http://www.lethenty-mill.com, allows other woodworking enthusiasts to
learn these techniques via a series of self study furniture making projects. |
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