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wrong with us applied equally to
the people higher in the pecking order on board. Only the two
deck boys were lower than us. One of them on one occasion sat
for an hour or two in a life boat on the boat deck clutching a
condom on the understanding that, yes we would get ashore and,
yes there were Polynesian women there with grass skirts.
The islanders came
out in their open boats – tanned, raggedy, chattering and
shouting to each other – and bare footed; the only people in the
world with webbed feet, according to one of the London Dockers.
Their boats were loaded up with bananas and pineapples which
they exchanged for household goods and Seventh Day Adventist
Tracts which they handed out freely (these probably floated back
to land on the next tide). They also had carvings of flying fish
and birds, which they made from wood found on neighbouring
Henderson Island. Each of these had a stand with the name of the
carver stamped on it – Made by someone Fletcher or Christian
reminded you that this was where the mutineers and some
Polynesians landed up after dumping Captain Bligh and his
colleagues (1787). The mutineers fell out when they arrived here
– murder and mayhem ensued and the Bounty was burned, before
things settled down and the islanders found out about growing
fruit and vegetables, keeping bees and selling stamps worldwide.
Little was heard of them until recent revelations emerged about
dark doings in this small community which we don’t even want to
think about.
Pitcairn is very
fertile, it’s a tiny rock in mid-Pacific and by its sheer
insularity it attracts all nearby clouds and gets more than its
fair share of rain. They can get several crops each year.
As the engines
started up again, the remaining tracts went over the side and
our banana eating competition would have started and, although
these are not big bananas, 32 small bananas is still quite a
record to beat without stopping. We didn’t give a thought to the
mutineers as they first made landfall a couple of hundred years
before and to the arguments that were to take place, despite the
idyllic setting.
There are lots of
tales about Westerners going to faraway islands and falling out
but Robinson Crusoe just had to get on with it, at least until
Man Friday came along.
Robinson Crusoe is
the archetype and I could just picture him discovering a tool
chest like mine as he strolled along the beach one day. There it
would be; washed up on the sand – a complete set of 19th
century cabinet maker’s tools. It would have been protected from
the sea water by a covering of tarred canvas, otherwise many of
the tools would have been ruined…… or maybe it would be
conveniently attached to some floating spars that had come
adrift before the boat broke up. Anyway, just imagine his
delight as he goes through the trays and discovers the range of
tools; lifting them out and laying them carefully on the sand,
muttering excitedly as he realises the possibilities. These
tools are very robust and if they had been carefully used and
maintained by the “chippy” (ship’s carpenter), Mr Crusoe could
have been using them right away. |