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Wood - where to get it. Part 1

Timber merchants - seems obvious. There are other options below which might be more interesting, though, and more environmentally friendly. Local timber merchants stock wood etc. primarily for the building industry- usually softwoods ; you may have a specialist stockist next door of course; that would be very handy. The specialists , e.g. John Bodie’s, Duffield’s etc may have what you need, but if you only want to turn a set of egg cups the price of getting a piece the right size and delivered to your door may be prohibitive – I’m not saying that the specialists are “ripping you off” it’s just that they can’t make a living out of providing that kind of service. If you are planning to make egg cups you need to keep your eyes open and/or consider options 2) and 3).

Even if you are planning to make something larger like a table or a dresser you may find the cost of finding and shipping the raw materials surprisingly high. In our culture of “throw away” goods and cheap imported look–a-likes, ( I have to be brutally honest, here) the hand – made option is not necessarily going to work out cheaper, certainly when you include your own labour as a cost. There, I’ve said it – but there are many very good reasons for making your own furniture, and that’s what this website is about !

Local timber merchants are fine if the available cross-sections, species and quality are what you are looking for; but remember, the moisture content of their stock is very important, your house probably has central heating. Timber from the timber yard that is above 11% moisture content is liable to shrink and/or twist and that is more prevalent with softwoods than hardwoods, they will not have a moisture meter in the yard. ( well, I’ve never seen one in public in a timber yard ) The best approach is to assume the wood is above 11% and take it home, cut it up into sizes bigger than you need and stack it up with thin sticks between each layer in a warm, not too warm, place in the house to dry out. This is a very old –fashioned way of making sure the wood is acclimatised to the conditions in your house, but it works. Draw a line across a broad section (wood shrinks across the grain) and take regular measurements at that point to see if they are changing, and wait till they have stabilised before using the wood.

Can wood be too dry ? Yes, it gets brittle and difficult to work with but that is unlikely to happen using this method unless you leave it drying for months and months – 2 months should be maximum. Although wood from timber yards is described as Kiln Dried and may have “KD” in the description on the bill – if you ask what that means you may find that their accepted moisture content is 16%. This may be all right for structural timbers for a house but is not dry enough for furniture.

The procedure I have described above ensures that you don’t have cracking and twisting in your carefully made piece of furniture - I have heard many stories about this – and that is why I am bringing it up now, and recommending extreme caution.
When you are selecting the timber in the yard ( by the way, don’t take anything that is stacked outside ) look out for “shakes” or natural cracks, bad or frequent knots, blue stains ( common in red pine ) and be wary of boards which are “shrink wrapped” together – making it difficult to inspect them properly. It’s best if you can look carefully along the length of each board to spot (and avoid) bends and twists. Wany edges (the irregular surface just under the bark ) and heart wood can be a nuisance especially in pine. The heart of the tree ( the pith ) often has associated cracks when it dries out and the pith can look unsightly. Another hint – if a section has only a few boards left in it, it may be best to leave them as these have been selected out by the previous customers.

So, they are going to be pleased to see the back of you. By the way it’s sometimes best to have a cross-cut saw with you (and your cutting list) to cut the boards into more convenient lengths.

There is an important environmental aspect to all this too – if you ask the man in the yard he will probably direct you to the office and they may have a handout of their company’s environmental policy or can tell you where to get a copy. I deal with Timbmet a large timber distributer whose website www.timbmet.co.uk gives you all the information you need about their aims and certification. As a member of the UK FTN ( a partnership between WWF and businesses involved in timber or paper products ) Timbmet’s performance is assessed by WWF and subject, on a random sample basis, to an independent audit. Timbmet was last audited in 2006.

On the down side most of our timber comes in from abroad so there is a huge carbon footprint associated with this activity. Companies like Timbmet are well aware of this and aim “to become a carbon – neutral company” ( from their Environmental Policy Statement)
I believe them, but time is just not on our side according to the scientific evidence on global warming presented to the global community at Bali in December 2007.

On a more positive note – timber is moved by ships not planes so the carbon footprint is less than it would be if it were a perishable substance.
 

Allan Fyfe is proprietor of Lethenty Mill Furniture. He is passionate about the designs and techniques associated with traditional furniture from the North East of Scotland. His website, http://www.lethenty-mill.com, allows other woodworking enthusiasts to learn these techniques via a series of self study furniture making projects.

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